Onto the legs. These are called "double bobbin" legs. In the finished leg, there are two v-grooves, which are the "bobbins". There is another basic type (there are many variations of each type), called a baluster leg. I do this style for two reasons: it's easier than the baluster type, and I like the way it looks. Sometime soon I will need to work on the baluster type as well.
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| First, the main diameters are set using a parting tool |
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Then you just connect all the different diameters - easy!
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The far right end is tapered, as precisely as I can, to make a conical tenon - this will fit into a conical mortise in the chair seat. The line farthest right is 15/16 of an inch, to give you an idea of the accuracy. The combination of a conical tenon and mortise is used in lathes and other kinds of machinery, and forms a very strong joint when everything fits properly. Search for "morse taper" if you're interested.
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I work from right to left
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These relatively long (20 inches) and thin (3/4 inch at the thinnest part) pieces are a bit tricky to turn. They can tend to vibrate as the chisel cuts through the wood, and this can leave chatter marks. Good technique and sharp tools is the way to avoid this problem. One simple thing which helps is to leave the left end for last, as that is where the power from the lathe is transmitted.
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| One done - you can see the template in the background |
I always get a kick from seeing a chair leg emerge from a raw piece of wood. These simple turnings make a very pretty chair, if I do say so myself. :)
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The template has all the dimensions marked
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The template is simply held up to the piece of wood which is spinning on the lathe, and a pencil is used to transfer the diameter marks directly to the wood.
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Before and after
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| The fruits of my labor |
The leg on the left has a small crack in the bottom of the leg, hence the tape. I can't risk the leg cracking further once the chair is assembled, so this won't get used.
